Christmas this year feels like the last days of Rome. Eating has been such a huge part of my life. It’s social. You do it with others and go and meet them to do it. You get pissed when you’re doing it. I love cooking it, and in recent years have really honed my skills. My husband had some bespoke knives made for me this year. Significant perhaps in that I will be cutting the ties with my old, overindulgent life.

The fridge was full and there was a rolling sequence of people coming to dinner parties at the house. It was a brilliant time where all the days rolled into a haze of friends, cheese and champagne. Lovely. Delicious.